I flew into Athens from Paris in June to abundant cypress trees. My taxi driver was extremely friendly – a welcome southern European contrast. I lazed around, seeing the main tourist sites, like the Parthenon; I did a food tour through the central markets, drank ouzo, sampled olives. I walked, stopping in shops, cafes, parks. From Athens, I took a ferry to Milos, where I rented a jeep and drove to Skinopi lodge, all the while admiring the local drivers for their patience in navigating two-way one-lane roads. I visited Sarakiniko – the white lunar beach, ate Karpouzopita (watermelon pie). After Milos, I ferried to Mykonos with the intent to observe its famous nightlife, purely anthropologically.